The Galapagos Islands

Took a wee while to get there as the flight was delayed for 2 hours at our stopover airport near the coast, but this gave us some time to meet the rest if the group. All of whom seemed to be a good laugh and completly normal. We even had a Yank couple that were delightful, intelligent and cultured...a shock I know. Got to the boat and were in for a treat as dad had chosen a 3 masted schooner for the trip. Gorgoeus old Noweigan boat that ahd somehow ended up in the middle of the pacific. We all got properly introduced. Dad and I, another couple from Scotland, 2 English couples and a token Japanese girl called Mia. Our natuiralist guide was called George and was a native to the Galapagos, he called himself indemic, which is the word for all the specis that are found only on the islands...not far wrong from what we could gather!! Took our first nature walk (first of many) and headed out onto the island. Saw some giant black bids with wierd scrotal red things under their chins called Frigate bords and these things looked like terodactyles when they are flying. When i get the pics uploaded you will be able to see what i am talking about. They were feeding on the baby turtles that were hatching out of their eggs in the sand. Amazing experince as these animals have no fear of man and all this was happening only 2m away from where we were standing. It like we were not there at all! Also checked out some Blue Footed Boobies and Pelicans that were diving for fish...very cool!! A short dip in the suprisngly warm water before heading back to the ship for some fruit shakes and a rest before our briefing and dinner. We had a nature breifing every night prior to dinner where we were told about the island that we were going to be visting the next day, the type of landing we could expect (wet or dry), the type of animals that we could expect to see and what to bring. Everyone headed to bed pretty soon after dinner as blasted from the travelling and the fact that wake up call had been set at 5.30am so as to get to the island before all the other boats!!

Day 2

5.30 is an evil time to be awake, my philosophy is that anything earlier than 6 or 6.30 is officially the middle of the night and far better to be seen when one has not been to bed yet!! But up we were and after a morning cup of Cha (tea, can’t be doing anything in the morning without a cup of tea!!) we headed to the island for our pre breakfast walk. Saw some Frigate birds mating, which is quite weird as the male inflates the scrotum thing under his kneck into a balloon and looks very strange! Saw loads of Blue and Red footed Boobies nesting and feeding. These birds are amazing when they are diving for fish as they dive from about 100m and hit the water at a stupid speed. They really are nature’s smart bombs! In fact George told us that they only actually catch the fish on the way back up as they hit the wayer at such speed that if they tried to open their beaks their throats would explode with the water pressure and they would drown! There were also some Galapapgos Doves and Owls duking about looking cool. The fasted off all the birds we saw were the Storm Petrals, in fact they were so quick that I couldn’t even get a decent pic of them! But by far the cheekiest of all were the Mocking birds who hopped around tweating at you and trying to steal your water from your water bottle!

Bck to the boat for the first bout of snokling and what a trip that was. In the hour we were in the water saw a 3m hammerhead shark about 2m away from me, huge school of golden and marbled manta rays (VVV Cool!!). Sting rays, parrotfish, emporer angel fish, trumpet and needle fish (V Wierd fish) and not forgetting a big marine iguana swimming back up from the bottom. These things are the only species in the world that can do this and look like mini versions of Godzilla!! But the overall winners of the coolest marine animals had to be the Sea Lions. Look like oversized seals with ears and are total dudes in the water. Spent most of the time twisting and turning around us and making cute barking noises. Really playful and an absolute joy to be in the water with! Had to cut short the trip as some of the less aqautically able members of the group were struggling and poor little Mai was turning blue, even with 2 wet suits on. But bear in mind that she must weigh about 6 stone!! Back onto the panga and boat bound for the usual hot chocolate and snakes before breifing, dinner and bed (God all such party animals).

Day 3

Yes you guesses it. Up at the craic of dawn for some more walking action and more of those boobies. But then more snorkling and saw some more sea lions, spotted puffer fish and some Galapagos penguins but only floating on the surface. bastard cold in the water, prob about 15 or 16 degrees which is way too cold for shorties. Bear in mind that Mike and I had full lenght double 8m suits at that temp in NZ!! But saw our first turtles in the water. One of my fav creatures as they just look so cool cruising around. back to the boat and more of the usual routine.

Day 4

On land we saw some land iguanas which are far larger than the marine ones but dont really do very much. Nice colours though as they have just come out of the mating season and were still wearing their yellow and red heuyed skin. Oh and managed to spot some Galapagos hawks mating. Really rare occurance and the guide wants me to mail my pap cam pic over the Nat Geographic. They are quite good but prob not that good. Will put some up with all the others on bebo.

Highlight of the day was watching massive pods of common dolphins leaping out of the water with the setting sun in the background with sea lions and a mink whales as well. Once again managed to snap off some decent pics which you can all peruse and rob...lol.

Day 5

Walked up one of the extinct volcanos before breakfast for some okish views out over the islands. Pretty cloudy so not much to see. Island looked like the surface of mars as it was all red and black volcanic ash and rock and nothing much living their. A few lava lizrads (no prizes for how they get their names) and some birds.

In the water we saw about 5 White Tipped Reef Sharks which were kinda cool and managed to get some good snaps (i hope) on the underwater disposable that i picked up. Loads of penguins feeding which pute the species in a whole new light as they are very sleek and fast under the waves. Some badass looking trigger fish that thankfully didn't feel like attacking us and some other reef fish that i'm 100% sure that Nike are basing at least 3 of the their new trainre lines on!! Obviously a fish fan on the design team!!

Day 6

2 lots of snorkling today as so much to see and managed to eye ball some more WT Reef Sharks a Hammerhead (although i was busy l;ooking the wrong way ;( ) , moray eel, marbled sting ray and more of the wicked sea lions.

Landed on the big island and went to the Darwin centre to see the giant tortoises. When they saw giant theye really mean it. These things grow up to about 400 to 500 kg and are like mini tanks. Cauight a wee glimpse of the Lonesome George which is an tortoise that they found all alone on one of the islands back in the 70's. The only surviving member of his sub species left and they have been trying to get him to mate for 30 years. Supposedly have tried evertything except cloning and porn!!

Trekked onto one of the smallest islands and saw some very pink flamingos and frigate birds eating the baby turtles. Oh and in the shallows there were loads of mini sting rays and a baby hammerhead.

Day 7

Last full day. Pretty chilled. Usual early morning walk to see the mating dance of the Wave Albatros. Pretty interserting, but got bored as Dad and I had kinda seen as many birds as we could take by then. Went to the information centre and saw some fur seals from the panga.

Sorry for the massivo post but it was an actioned packed week. have been chilling in Quito for last few days and went to the centre of world yesterday, yes the equator. Got some good jumping shots over the line. Off to the cloud forest tomorrow for a day or 2. More later.

Me

Currently on a boat in the Galapagos, well actually in an internet cafe on one of the islands but only have 5 mins so can´t be long. Boat is fab, weather is ace, and the wildlife is out if this world. Expect to see some awesome pics on bebo and mediamax soon. have a full update planned when we get back to civilisation!!

C

Day 1
Got collected from Monaterio by Carlos for our Sacred Valleytour and headed into the mountains. Scorcher of a day and i managed toget my neck fried! so much for my once vaunted base tan :( Day waswicked and checked out loads of sites. Got droppeed off at hotel andhad a quiet one in readiness for the trail.



Day 2

Met Haydee athotel and went to collect porters & supplies. managed to get a coolwalking stick for about a squid. had to start the trail a km early asroad was getting repaired. First day was pretty cruisy as stopped atloads of sites for talks. Really impressed with the sheer speed thatthe porters go at. 20kg on their backs and they are sprinting up &down the hills in sandles!! Weather was quite good but got a littleovercast later which was good gor trekking! Made the camp by 6 & had adecent dinner.



Day 3 This one was a bastard as had to climb from3100m to the pass at 4200m. The path was a constant uphill slog butmanaged to get to the top in reasonable time. Most people camp @ thebottom of the hill but thought we would push on over the next ridgetoget the worst out of the way. Arrived sweaty, tired men after 17kmof inca action.



Day 4

Easy day as only 10km to the camp. Got therefor lunch & spent some time wandering around the ruins. Amazing place,with some of the best stone work we had seen! Best of all had a hotshower & a cold beer :) Early to bed as getting up at 4ish for trek tosun gate!



Day 5

Short trek to sun gate and what a view. Watched asthe first rays of the day touched the peak of Hyanu Pitcu. Perfectday, cobalt blue sky with the odd wisp of clouds cloaking thesurrounding mountains! Spent the morning exploring and having thetour. In the afternoon we climbed Hyanu Pitchu which is the mountainabove Machu Pichu. very steep climb and going down was absolutlybonkers. Like going down a stone ladder with a 600m drop on each side.Dad did very well as i found it pretty tough! Ended the day travellingback on the swanky Hiram Bingham train.

Well Barraloche was ok but very cold and very windy. Decided to try for a ridge hike on the 2nd day but got to the top and looked like we were in Aviemore. White out, snowstorm, etc. So decided to do a low level hike instead which was a little dull but nice enough. Not much to do in town with the time we had. Would have loved to have gone horse riding but didnt have the time.

Flew up to BA and booked into a slightly wierd hotel. Ok but a little run down. Think Dad is looking forward to Flash packing part of the trip!! Had a top meal in BA best restaurant and lamost managed to spend 100 squid, which in BA is very impressive. had to get up at 5:30 again and bid adious to Ruth before flying over to Peru.

Got here eventually and Cuscu is a cool place. Looks a bit like La Paz but much nicer. had a wee walk around and picked up some more el packa stuff. The hotel is stupidly extravagant and dad really pulled out the stops here. About a zillion times better than the crap plñaces that i ahve been staying ovre last 9 months. Day of chilling tomorrow and then off for some Inca sightseeing as a warm up for the inca trail.

Later folks,

C

El Chaltan

Very cool place, reminds me of a wild west town as none of the roads are sealed, the wind blows all the time and there is a constand stream of dust blowing down the roads. The hostel was a bit on the pricey side buit totally luch. Best beds I have slept in for months. The setting is amazing as well as the town is literally surrounded by mountains. You can see the tops of Fitz Roy and Cerre Torres sticking out over the hills. Decided to have a quest day of relaxation after all the early mornings over last few days.

8th

Did the Cerre Torres hike. Pretty easy and the weather was perfect. Cobalt blue sky, little wind and amazing views. Will have the pics up on bebo soon. Walk took about 6 hours and we wenmt at a decent pace. Maybe slightly too fast for Dad but he refused to walk any slower!

9th

Weather much, much colder today and had to wrap up very well for the hike. Gone for the Fitz Roy route today and meant to be a much harder hike. 80% of the route is pretty easy but the last km is all up hill at maybe 40-60 degree angle so not too easy on the legs and the wind was wicked. Just blasting you from side to side. Got to the top and the a rewarded with an ok view, took some snaps and got the hell off there before the weather closed in. Lucky had taken pics all the way along so had quite a few decent ones. Think we made the right choice with days as cerre Torres is a better looking set of mountains. Quite like teeth pointing up out of the plane´s. The pics will tell the full story.

10th

Day of travel. Got up at 6 and didn´t get to Baraloche till 7 at night so pretty blasted.

11th

Shitty weather today but got all the info for trekking tomorrow. Fingers crossed for blue skies.

C

1st April
Met Dad and Ruth in the airport after a top night at Opera bay. had to head home early (5ish) as needed to be up at 7 and Maria, one of the girls in the hostel couldn´t really stand so had to do the gentleman bit!! Headed back to the posh hotel bit of Clan and checked in. had a nice day walking round BA . Went to the cemetary again, over to San Telmo for the antiques fair and then onto town for some nice food and drink. Had to have a power nap in the afternoon as everyone was blasted before heading out to one of the cities best restaurants for some top nosh.

2nd April

More treking round town. Tried to book some travel but public holiday so decided to stay an extra night and do everything on the Tues. Booked the Tango show which was wicked. Very good dancers and made me really want to learn the dance!

3rd

Managed to get some flights to El Calefatte booked then onto Baralotche for more trekking. Looks like Egazu is out as no flights for the window we have. I will try and get it in when I am in Brazil. Yet more walking round and eating. Not much else to do in BA during the week. Had an early one as the flight is at 5:40 so its a 3:30 walk up time :(

4th

Got the flight ok and arrived in a very sunny patagonia 3 tired people. Checked into our hostel and booked onto a glacier tour to PeritoMoreno. Excellent tour, drove round the glacier, trekked up to it and then got a boat round the back of it. Saw loads of massivo chunks of ice drop off and some awesome blue ice and crevaces!! Didn´t get back till 9ish and late to bed!

5th

Tired again as had to get up at bastardo o´clock again and head over to Chile to check out Torres del Painne which are some of the most impressive moutains in Patagonia (which is saying something!!). da described this place as Scotland on steriods and he is not far wrong. The odd peak rising 3.5km straight up out of the plains this place is the spitting image of the highlands. The colours of the hills, type of terrain and even the meadering rivers, and epic lakes are all reministant!! Lots of sitting on a bus though which was really annoying as wanted to go play in the hills!! Next time i´m here then! The peaks were V impressive as they have the same vertical ascent as Everest. The weather even held up for us most of the time. Got some pretty decent snaps but not much blue sky to be found! But another late night as didn´t get back till after 9. Oh and another early one tomorrow :(

6th

Managed to lie in till 7am yahhhh!! Had to get the bus to El Chatain at 7:30. Trip was fine. MOre amazing sceanary as Fitz Roy and the rest of the peaks marched higher and higher out of the plain. Town itself is nothing to write home about. Fiendishly overpriced by SA standards and a bit like a wild west town out of the 18 hundreds. Just waiting for the tumbleweeds and horsemen to ride in from the priarey!! Did however see a genuine warrent for Butch Cassidies arrest hanging up in some wayhouse on the way here. Him and Sundance made it all the way down here to almost the end of the world! Having a well deserved day of rest today before mounting some prettys eriousn treks. Shortest is about 8 hours I think. The weather is fine and hoping for blue skies tomorrow. Will try and blog about Fitz Roy tomorrow and upload some pics.

Chris