Chris's Travel Tales

Summer 2008 trip round Central America from panama to Mexico. Lots of steaming jungle, idylic beaches and overgrown ruins. Pics will be on facebook and flckr/lyleston. Chris :()

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Tikal

Headed out of Belize with very little hassle. Pretty smooth border crossing for a change and made it all the way to the pretty town of Flores. Which is a town on an island in the middle of a huge, crystal clear lake. Booked out tour for Tikal which unfortunatly left at 3am so as to catch the sunrise. So after waaayyy too little sleep we ended up in Tikal for a slightly shambolic tour. The ruins were cool though. We all started on top of Temple 4 which is the temple in Star Wars IV to watch as the temples appeared out of the mist. Very etherial with the temple tops sticking out of the jungle canopy and slipping in and out of view. Once the sun came up it turned into a scorcher of a day and we did the tourist thing. Managed to get some good pics and found a giant cricket thing and a small snake. The best bit was probably Temple of the Grand Jaguar. A soaring 71m climb up almost vertical ladder to reach the summit. Excellent views of the surrounding vista from above the tree tops. At the bottom managed to see a family of howler monkeys with a baby and managed some excellent pics as they were really close. I'll stick them on facebook over next few days. Only dissapointment was the lack of intricate stonecarvings which i was expecting but as this is the fist of many Mayan ruins that i'm going to see i'll reserve judgement for the moment.

All in all a cracking day out. Right off the bed as i'm fecked.

Chris.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Diving Belize Style

Went for our first dive with a co called Frenchies who were meant to be one of the best on the island. was a little concerned when there were 8 beginner divers on the boat, us and a dive master. The two dives were shambolic in the extreme, so much so that i had to abandon my usual tac of going right behind the DM as u usually see the most. The usual rule of everyone swimming in a line seemed to not apply here and there were people above you, below you bumping into you, kicking you. Most annoying and even cam close to smacking some prat underwater who was banging into Ruth constantly. The 2nd dive we just hung out at the back at tried to avoid the morons. Decided to cancel the blue hole dive with them and go with Big Fish which turned out to be a capital decision as our mates from Bocas turned up to be on the same dive.

The Blue Hole - well after a ridiculously early rise of 5am i checked out a wicked dawn (seen way too many of these this trip and not in the usual still up from night before type too!) and had to leg it to the dive shop as it was attack of the killer mossies. No wind = millions of the little bastards and i was performing the amusing running while trying to slap arms and legs simultaneously run. Got our gear and got on our way. The boat rise was good and the sea was flat as a board. A few clouds gave us some cool pics and then we got to to the hole itself. You can't get the same perspective as you can from the air but when you get under the water you see what all the fuss is about. The hole itself was formed when a giant cave that used to be above sea level millions of years ago collapsed into itself so you have giant 30m long stalactites that you can swim around. The vid gives you an idea of what it is like - note this is not me! The hole is the worlds largest sinkhole, it lies near the centre of lighthouse reef a small atoll 96 km east of Belize. The hole is almost perfectly round and is 305m across and 146m deep. Now this is far too deep to go fun diving to but we made a fast decent down to 44m. At this depth your lungs are 1/8 there normal size at the surface and you can easily get nitrogen narcosis, which is going a bit loco underwater. One of the girls was in a bit of a mess at the bottom but managed to get a handle on it. People have been known to take out their regs and try to give them to fish, that kind of thing. So we drop to 40m and start to swim in and out of the cathedral sized pillers of rock and massivo stalactites. As we looked up into the blue haze you could see a school of Caribbean nurse sharks circling above, silhouetted against the water. As we ascended the sharks swam right past us, only about 4m away. Magnificent creatures, so graceful. They are meant to be pretty harmless to people so wasn't too bothered although Ruth was grabbing my arm at this point. The whole dive was only about 25m due to the rate people were going though their O2.

We did another couple of dives after that and saw some of the best soft coral I've ever seen and some Southern Sting Rays and eagle rays. Lunch was on a small island where we saw hundreds of hermit crabs and some red footed boobies and frigate birds. Easily one of the best days that I've had on this trip and probably one of the best dives I've done so far :)

Now were are probably going to head back to the Guatemalan border to do some caving before heading to Tikal for the first of Mayan ruins.

Oh and before I go just wanted to say congrats to Paul and Sara on their engagement, really happy for you both!

Chris

Friday, July 25, 2008

Roatan and Caye Caulker

Hey Everyone. sorry I've been off the air for a bit internet was way too pricey on Roatan and the wireless i was nicking via my itouch doesn't let me update the blog :(

Anyway spent 6 blissful days on Roatan in the Bay Islands diving and sun bathing. I am now at least 5 shades of less white than i was before and now actually believe that i might come back with a half decent tan :) The weather was not great but didn't rain much for a change. The diving was pretty good and saw loads of lobsters, king crabs, turtles and even a spotted eagle ray - very cool. But the best dive had to be the night dive. Saw some octopus which were amazing, some more crustaceans which are always cool but every time you moved about in the water these microscopic plankton glow in the dark. At once point we all sat on the sea floor and switched off out torches, within about 2 min there were millions of little lights all floating around us. Looked like we were in space, some were in little chains or on the coral, others were just free floating. You could write your name in the water like you were holding a sparkler. One of the best dives i have ever done, oh and when we surfaced we were treated to a completely clear night sky. You could see loads of stars and even the belt of the milky way. Tried to get some star shots on the slr but they came out crap :(

Decided to save the monster overland/sea journey to get up to Belize and just fly. So again with the bastardo o'clock start. 4:45 for a 5 check in just to be told that the flight was changed to 9!! 3 of the smallest planes I've ever flown on later we eventually arrived safe and sound in Caye Caulker which is one of the islands off Belize. Didn't think things could get much pricer than Rotan but again proved wrong. This place is about the same as UK which is ridiculously expensive for this part of the world. To be fair though we are not exactly roughing it this time as have our own wee bungalow for the princely sum of $65 a night!

Signed up for the Blue Hole dive which is what most people come here for. You are meant to be able to see it from space and I've been dying to do this dive for ages. If its as good as i hope i might even try to get two trips in. Not cheap though but hey it's just money!

Anyway really sorry about the lack of pics as just haven't had a chance but when we hit Guatemala in a few days time I'll clear the back log.

laters peeps,

Christophe

Monday, July 21, 2008

Bay Island Finally

Hey Everyone, finally managed to get the Bay Island of Roatan after many hours on buses. 3:30am start and didn't get to La Ceiba till 23:00 - by far the most hardcore travelling we have done so far. Island is cool though. Been doing quite a bit of diving. Did a wreck dive this morning and saw a massive Moray Eel and some cool lobsters, and all the usual reef fish. Doing a night dive tomorrow night which should be cool.

Sun is shining most of the time and really enjoying it here although recon it would be dull after a week or so as there is really nothing to do except dive and tan. Going to head back to the mainland on Wed and go rafting then try and get up to the Belize which may prove to be interesting.

Right have to be quick as boring someones laptop as the internet cafe here is charging $14 per hour!!!

Laters.

Cx

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Thursday, July 17, 2008

Lake Apoyo

Spent the day chilling out inside the massive crater of Volcan Apoyo. The crater lake is a nice 20 degrees and the water was crystal blue. The bearded Monkey hostel has a place there called the Monkey Hut with tubes, kyaks and hamocks. Very relaxing way to spend the say Weather was overcast but in true Scott style i still managed to get the shoulders burnt. Oh the curse of the ginger geme!! Ruth is now loving the fact that my freckles have a tinge of green to them. Must be the hulk in me coming out :)

Now in Masaya to check out some more volcanos and maybe see some lava up close and personal before headed up to Honduras tomorrow.

Laters,

Chris

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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Smoking Volcanoes and Mossy Jungles

Hey Hey,

Finally managed to get out of Costa Rica after obligatory bastardo o´clock bus journey down the bumpiest road in the world in a 1960´s US school bus, got to the border and had to wait 1.5 hours in a massivo queue. This is the longest it has ever taken me to get into a coutry but met a Dutch women last night who spent 4 hours at the same one so must have been lucky. Arrived in Isla de Ometepe which is a island made out of two volcanos. We had a bit a maire getting to the place in the first place as somehow managed to miss our boat and had to get a lampcha, which is a really, really shit way to travel on water. It was taking water in the side as it was very windy and everyone though it was going to sink. I thought it was quite funny but all the gap year brigade were getting very worried. Imagine captain pugwash´s boat once he decided to flog it and your close!!

After a night in some of the worst accomondation so far (got rather savages by the mossies) we leged it to Merida where you can climb the smaller volcano (safer as it is extict unlike the other one). We walked to a waterfall a third of the way up with some studets who were going to hike the volcano with us but they decided after the Volcano was going to be too much for them. Probably a wise move in hindsight...

Started the walk in sunshine but the top 3rd of the Volcano was in pretty thick cloud and the guide gave a us a 25% chance of a view at the top. The first have of the hike was pretty gruelling as constantly uphill and very steep, with humidity in the 90% mark. We were both soaking and going through are water at a fast rate. Luckily the top have was so overgrown you literally had to crawl through the trees to get up. Very Indiana Jones and definatly the most jungly jungle i have ever been in. Amazingly narled old trees and everything covered in a thick layer of moss and lychen. The fact that you were in the clouds only added to the eariness of the place as eveything was very misty. Will stick some pics online when i get a faster connection, promise!! Anyway eventually we go to the to, you could tell as we ran out of things to climb but couldn´t see a thing. We could have continued onto the rim then down into the crater but as we couldn´t see anything there wasnt much point so we just trudged down. Took us 6.5 hours all in all. Saw some col birds and howling monkeys. Have a cool video of me and Ruth versus the monkeys in a howling competition :D We won defo!

Now in the pretty colonial town of Granada where all the houses are different pastal colours. Going to go on some tours to the local volcanos and beach then try to get up to Honduras at the weekend as need to stick to the schedule if we are going to get to Belize in time for Ruth to dive the blue hole.

Well thats all for now.

Chris

Ps - the sun has finally started to shine :)))))))))))))

Friday, July 11, 2008

Hey Hey Amigos,

Did the night walk last night and saw quite a lot of cool animals and bugs. Loads of funnel web and tarantula spiders, some wierd cricket like things, some frogs and even a sloth. Sloth was about 40m away so didn't get a good view but at least we saw one :)

Spent the morning flying along zip lines at stupid speeds about 120m above the jungle floor and usually above the canopy. Excellent fun, there were about 12 lines and took at least 2 hours. Didn't see too much in the way of wildlife but the adrenaline made up for it :) Then we did the bridge walks which are 8 high wire suspension bridges up in the canopy which was also pretty cool. On the way back to the reception we heard a huge gang of howling monkeys but unfortunatly they were too far away to get a view :(

Chilling tonight as we have to get up at 5am for 6am bus to Nicaragua. Having to go by public bus but should get to the border by about 1 with a little luck.

Hope the weather is not too grim for TiTP this weekend and have a good time guys, i'll be with you in spirit!!

Chris

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Well back in the rain again as we have arrived in the cloud forest resort of Satna Elana. Did the jeep-boat-jeep thing to get get here which saves 9 hours of bumpy bus travel round the lake. Scenary was pretty impressive but very much like home. Got here in middle of massive rain storm which lasted most of the night so went to see a frog zoo thing which was cool. About 40 different types inclusing the poison arrow frogs. Had get up at 5:30 to make the bus to the Montiverde cloud forest park where we saw loads of humming birds and a few other animals. Hiked up the continental divide and it was even clear enough to see to the carribean sea. Planning on doing a twilight walk tonight to hopefully see some monkeys and sloths but will be cancelled if he rain doesn't stop :( Ruth and I will stay here till Sat then head back down to the pacific coast. Tomorow we ae booked into a high wire trip where you travel by zip line between platforms 100m above the jungle floor! Should be pretty good chance to see some monkey and cool birds.

Well more tomorow peeps.

Chris

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Hey Lava Lovers,

Managed to leg it all the way from Puerto Viejo to San Jose even though we missed the first bus Spent the night in San Jose the capital of Costa Rica. Not much happening. Hostel was really good but the place itself seemed quite dodgy and a bit on the chilly side. Ended up going to the cinema and seeing Kung Fu Panda which rocked. Up again at bastardo o clock for the bus to la Fortuna, village up in the highlands of the North where there is a fecking huge volcano. Last time it erupted was 22 days ago so still loads of smoke and lava coming out of the thing. Did a tour to the viewing spot and waited till it got dark to see the lava and the glowing red summit. Used to be able to hike much closer to the lava but the last eruption toasted the bridge so no up close action for me :( Have some savage pics though and i will get them on line asap. Ended the evening in some thermal pools which was kind of cool.

Now about to head over to Monteverde for some eco tourist action. The road is meant to be horrendous so you go by boat and 4x4...should be interesting.

More later.

Me

Monday, July 07, 2008

Hey Chicos,

Now in Sunny Costa Rica where it rains most of the time and everything is the same price as back home. Great eh! Crossed the border and styayed in a surf-party town call Puerto Viejo. Not much happening and decided to leg it out of there the next day. had my worst night sleep as the reggie shite was blaring all night and room was like a sauna. hey ho take the good with the bad. Now in the capital San Jose but planning on heading off to la Fortuna tomorrow at bastardo o clock where you can watch one of the worlds miost active volcano erupt. From a safe distance obviously. Really want to see some lava. My mate Tom has a really cool photo taking a piss into a lava flow but not sure this is going to be possible tomorrow!

Phone still is not working so dont be expecting any repsonses that way...

C

Saturday, July 05, 2008

Well managed to find the sun. Now in Isla del Colon in the Bocas Del Tora islands. Very afro carribean. Lots of reggie, rum and coke and late night partying. Got some beach action yesterday and today and managed a bit of surfing. Not a bad at it as i remebered but still need a lot of practise...

Was bashing the factor 30 but still seem to be on the way to looking like a par boiled lobster. Oh well looks like its just going to be something that has to happen on the path to my traveller tan!

Off to Costa Rico tomorrow for more beach, surf party action then probably some eco tourism trips. Hope everyone is well.

C

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Wednesday, July 02, 2008

Well arrived in Boquete in the mother of all rainstorms. They call this the rainforest for a reason. Torrential rain all night. Was hoping to go rafting but its 100 dollers a skull for the day. Too steep methinks. Woke to the first blue sky we have seen since we got here :) very nice with good views of the mountains and volcanoes. Went for a 8km hike in the morning as it always rains in the afternoon. Managed to avoid most of the showers but the rain is on now and looks like it is here to stay. The town itself is a bit wierd. Lots of American retirees all over the shop as they apparently make up half of the population. Was voted in top 5 places to retire in the world. Cant really see the attraction myself. Its nice but id be bored in a week...

Planning to leg it to Bocas Del Toro tomorrow which is on the Carribean coast and possibly better weather. Might stay there for a few days or head up to Costa Rico if the weather is pish.
Anyway hope it is lashing with rain back home which would make me feel a bit better. At this rate not going to manage much of a tan but did end up getting a little fried in Panama City which was wierd since we never say the sun. Oh the woes of having a rogue ginger gene floating about somwhere...

C

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