Chitchen Itza and Cancun

After spending best part of a day playing shithead in a bar we eventually left Palenque on the 21:00 bus. Not the best night bus as stopped everywhere and dumped us at the bus station at 5am. Hannah came and met us at 8 and we ended up on the 9:15 to Chitchen Itza. Got there and managed to dump our packs in left luggage for no wedge which was a nice change. Chitchen Itza is probably the most well preserved of the Mayan ruins but as we had arrived at noon it was tour group hell. Must have been a couple of thousand people at the site. Decided to go the wrong was round the loop to avoid the worst of the groups and did manage to get some clean shots through clever use of tours group timing. You get a small window when one leave before another arrives. The place is very impressive. One massive pyramid called the Castle standing in its own grounds. Largest ball court in mesoamerica gives you an impression of how imposing this city would have been in its heyday.

But it is fecking hot in Chitchn Itza. We were wilting after a couple of hours and decided to call it a day. Everyone agreed that they preffered Palenque as it was much quiter and as it is still quite overgrown looks far less santised.

Tried to get a bus to Chaquila to go to Isla Holbox for whale shark action but missed our connection by 5 mins so had to fire onto Cancun. Arrived early evening and booked into one of the LP recomended places. What a mistake that turned out to be! Room was tiny and the adjacent room had to use ours as a entry point, there was no fan and the guy in reception neglected to mention that there was a night club on the roof playing bad dance music till 8:30 in the morning. Had the worst night of the trip to date. No one got any sleep so checked out asap in the morning and managed to find a sweet place with ac and a pool.

I decided that the tooth situation needed to be resolved and found a dentist who informed me that i needed root canal treatment which i went for there and then. The nerve turned out to be totally dead and the pain i had been feeling was due to pressure of all the nastiness filling the cavity. Guy whecked the bad bits out and gave me some drugs for the pain and infection. Said i had been lucky to catch it in time as it was on the cusp of turning into a much worse infection. Apparently my face would have started swelling and getting infected. $350 US which the insurance co. wil be picking up but had to be done and much happier now. Have to go back on Mon for the temp filling to be put in place and to check the infection is clearing up then i free to continue on my travels. The guy has been a total legend so far :)

Going to go to the beach today and out for a session tonight as there seems to be nothing else to do in Cancun. The place is a hole. Isla Muhero is the next stop after here.

Right thats me folks. Speak to you all later.

C

Palenque - Jungle City of the Mayans

Met the boys by chance on the bus to Palenque, they had come all the way from San Christobal but as its the same route we ended up on the same bus. Lucky as the place we had arranged to stay was fully booked and did a little "How many backpackers can you get into a taxi" game. We managed 6 as it was only a 5 min ride. Mayabelle was a sweet place. Right in the national park and about 500m from the end of the Palenque trial beside the museum. We were planning on getting up at 5 for some misty ruins action but this was kiboshed as the ruins didn´t open till 8. Lucky we asked.

I had a REALLY shit night sleep as my tooth is killing me. Bus after 5 days of pain it seems to be calming down. I´m only taking 1200mg of ibuprofen as appose to the 3000ish i have been on for last 2 days. I know its not good for me but need must and all that.

So slept in till 7 woohoo and had a leisurely breakfast before heading to the ruins. Really impressed as the whole place is amazing. White pyramids, still with the vestiges of the red paint that would have decorated the place. Cool murals depicting famous battles and historic scenes from the city's past. The overcast morning helped add an element of mystique to the site. I liked the overgrown elements the best as you really get a sense of how ancient these ruins are. managed to get inside Pakal´s tomb, man it was really hot and damp in there. The tomb is empty now but i got to see him in Mexico city at the Anthropology Museum there :) Right call to gett here early as the place was fairly deserted and got some good shots. It was also quite cool and we had been warned that it turns into a sweat box later in the day.

Saw a Ocelot on the way out but didn´t manage to get a pic :( Really glad i went to Tonina as it helped get a sense of how these rival city states fought and contested each other over the years. managed to get back to the hostel before check out so rewarded ourselves with a long hot shower. I even had a shave. Partly because the boys were ripping me for having the most ginger tash in the group. Gareths is quite bad but mine was getting out of hand. So now i´m nice and clean shaven again! Booked our bus to Merida but unfortunately arrive there at 4:45am which is going to be fun. Might kip in the bus station for an hour or two. Then plan on collecting Hannah and heading over the Chitchn Itza for some more Mayan action!

Laters,

Chris

Tonina

Left San Cristobal at bastardo o clock to get the bus down to Ocosingo. Wee town with nothing much going on. I was the only gringo to be seen and managed to get Collectivo to the Tonina rions for about 20p. Obviously my excellent grasp of Spanish is standing me in good stead!! Spent the morning wandering around the site. very impressive. Mainly due to fact that it is meant to be almost as big at Palenque but almost had the place to myself. Cool underground laberynths and crypts, although had to just look into the crypts as the entrance must have been for midgets as there was no way baring leaving everything outside that i was going to be able to squeeze in. Wasnt too keen as on my own. There was a ball court and a decaptitation alter, nice eh!
Uusal massivo pyramids with combs on the top and lots of little passageways and nock and crannies to amuse me. The site is located in a patch of jungle in the middle of farmland so very pretty.

On the way down noticed some giant spiders and butterflys, got some amazing shots. Will try and get them onto flickr ASAP. (www.flickr.com/lyleston). Now waiting for my bus to Palenque. have about 2 hours to kill but should be ok.

Bye for now.

Chris

Indian Villages and Mayan Shows

Hey Everyone,

Yestareday went to visit some of the surrounding indian villages outsids of San Christobal. Managed to get a Collectivo (shared mini bus) with the Belgian girls and Hannah and Rob to the nearest one. As it was Sunday it was market day so got to see the locals doing their market day thing and also worshiping at the local church which was unlike any other church i have ever been in. The local me all wear either black or white rough woolen tunics over their clothes and the women all wear black woolen skirts. This is due to some strange local custom but must have been torture are it was roasting all morning. The market was fairly standard, selling everything from live chickens and goats to thread and batteries. Much like the 100s of other makets i have been to over the last few years. We took some pics of the locals in their ceremonial garb but got chased and told to delete the pics. Well the girls did anyway but as i had j used the pap cam and had been far enough away not to have been noticed. Apparently there was a huge sign on the outskirts of the town prohibiting it but we must have all missed it.

Ther church looked like a usual one but we had to pay 20 pesos to get in. Once inside the similarities ended. There were no seats only tables lined up against the walls with statues of saints inside. The local have blended a mix of local shamanism into the usual catholic stuff to form what we were seeing. People enter find a space either in front of a saint or towards the alter and light between 20 & 30 candles and incence sticks, they then burn offerings of coca cola and eggs to appease the spirits. They mutter incantations throughout this and the whole place has a very spooky feeling. Very smokey and lots of strange locals muttering in Mayan. The local spirit healers are round the edges practising their witch doctor skills on the local patients. Lots of screaming, muttering and shaking bits of animals at the afflicted. very wierd but also very cool site. Definatly the oddest place of worship i have ever been to though.

Last night we went to a theatre showing of the ancient Mayan war between Tonina and Palenque. Pretty good but hard to understand as all in either Spanish or Mayan. But interseting no the less.

Off to Ocosingo tomorrow at 7 to check out the Tonina ruins and then onot Palenque for the ruins there. Only 4 weeks left and still so much to see but need to keep the foot on the gas.

Chris

San Cristobal de Casas

Arrived after an okish night bus in the pretty wee mountain town of San Cristobal de Casas. Much smaller than Oaxaca with a Cusco kind of feel to it. Lots of small streets, 1 story buildings and lots of cafes, restaurants and gift shops. Mum, you would have a field day here! Met a couple of Belgian girls on the bus and booked into a quiet Frech Hostel, well i think its french as its called Posada Juvenll, which is meant to mean Youth Hostel in French. Checked in and then headed out to Canyon Sumidero which is a huge canyon carved out of the local hills. At parts the mountains tower 1000m over the river. Took a Lampcha down the river for about 20km checking out all the various flaura and fauna. Saw some Crocodiles, herons, eagles and quite a few Pelicans. The scenary was absolutly awesome, towering cliffs, majestic waterfalls, including the famous Christmas tree falls which were really wierd but very cool.

Not sure what we are going to dop tomorrow as may go to the local market as the girls haven´t been to one yet and i can´t really be arsed doing something on my own. Horse riding may also be in the cards. We shall see. Ian from MC is in town so might try to track him down and Hannah and Rob should be here tomorrow.

Later ya´ll as the yanks say.

Chrisbal

Mexico vs Honduras

Well went to the Aztec Stadium which is the 2nd largest in the world, 114,000 people. The attendance was almost 100% definitely in the 90,000 scale and have some amazing videos from the place. 100000ish people shouting Puta (whore) at the other team and crazy Mexican waves! Really glad Mexico won as didn´t really fancy having to fight through that many angry Mexicans. Getting there and back was bad enough on its own.

Made it back to the hostel more or less in one piece and were met by the usual tequila pouring into mouth routine. Got some salsa on the go with the locals and a squad of us went out to a salsa joint for some on the job training. Getting better but still no where near the locals who all look amazing. very sensual dance, but like the Argentinian tango but with less leg flailing and more spins.

Not feeling the best headed back to Oaxaca with Hannah from the hostel. Really confusing the girl at the bus station as we have the same last name and the same backpack so she was convinced we were related and should be paying together. Got to Oaxaca and bumped into my yo yo performing mate who was in the process of doing his last few shows before heading up to Mexico City. Had an early night for a change which was much needed and feel a new man today :)

Today went to visit some amazing ruins at Monte Alban which are near the city on top of a hill. Very Machu Pichu site and really glad i made the effort as was planning on skipping it. Now just chilling out wandering round in the sun, listening to the locals play classical music. This is defiantly what was needed after the craziness of Mexico City.

Have a night bus tonight to San Christobal de la Casas where i´ll stay for a day or two before heading onto Palenque.

Well as they say that's all for now folks.

Chris

Teotihuacán and the Museum

Hey Everyone,

Did the pyramid tour yesterday to see Teotihuacan ruins and somem other stuff. Ate some cactus for lunch (no really), drank mescal, tequila and some other drink and say the pope mobile. Not bad for a days work. Oh and i got sun burnt as well!

The ruins are really impressive, huge in a almost Egyptian kind of way. You can still see that basic layout of the city. 2 big pyramids and lots of little ones. The smaller of the two is falling down after the Japs dug too many holes in the side while exploring, but you can still get almost to the top.

Had a bit of an impromptu night as was staying in but the crazy barman arrives every 30 min and pours tequila into your mouth. I was on the Internet and didn't manage to escape. The tequila here is much nicer than UK stuff but still makes me gag :( Spent the day dragging my ass round the Anthropology Museum which was really cool but hard work. Weather is not the best at the moment but hopefully it will get better further south.

Off to watch Mexico play Honduras at footy tomorrow and then going to head back to the sun. Yucatan Here I come.

Chris

Mexico City

Left Oaxaca City after spending Thurs night salsa dancing rather badly. Well i was better than most of the other gringos but then i did spend 4 months trying to master it last year. I had forgotten how tiring it was. Managed to get the bus about 12 which was later than i planned as didn't want to be kicking around Mexico City in the dark.

Arrived in massivo rain storm. Seems to be i always cross borders and arrive in capitals in horrendous rainstorms...Managed not to get robbed, raped or generally accosted at the bus station. Did go up to defcon 7 on the security front. Mace, baton, money belt (first time this trip) and mugger wallet all primed but luckily unnecessary. Checked into Hostel Amigos for 5 days and headed straight out to watch some Lucho Libra which is Mexican wrestling. Very amusing as they all have the most ridiculous outfits and masks on. Am going to pick up a couple of masks as gifts as they are class. Women on Women, Men on Men, Women on Midgets. Only thing that wasn't there was donkeys! Headed back to the hostel and 5 of the guys had bought outfits including leggings and were having their own Gringo Libre in the bar. was tempted to join in but thought better off it. Not sure i have the legs for skin tight leggings, oh and the muffin top would not have been pleasant!!

Yesterday headed to a nice market and then wandered around the 2nd largest city square in the world. Very pleasant time as there were dancers and street performers all over the place. Ended up out on the lash last night. Pretty sun night and went to a good few places. Mexico city has a real energy about it but not the cheapest place in this part of the world. Not far off UK prices which is OK once in a while but wouldn't do the budget much good to be here for too long.

Tomorrow off to Tenochtitlan to check out the Aztec ruins for the day which are meant to be pretty cool. So more later.

Chris

Mexico Finally

Arrived in Mexico after a 11 hours of travelling and promptly jumped on another 13 hour bus up to Oxaca as the border city was meant to be muchos dull. Arrived in bright sunshine in the pretty mountain city of Oxaca (pronounced Wo-ha-ca). Booked into an alright hostel and sent the rest of the day wandering around getting my bearings. Not much happening at the hostel so ended up going to the cinema with a girl from the bus to see Batman. $2 well spent :)

Today i went on a tour to see the oldest tree in Mexico and possibly the world. 2000 years old, 52m round and 17m thick. Not sure if its the oldest in the world but it was big. The headed off to see how carpets and rugs are made. All very educational but nothing i´ve not seen before. Then checked out some cool Mistec ruins (i know, i had never heard of then either before this) which were quite cool although very small afer Tikal. Stopped off at some natural pools for a swim and to take some pics of what they said was a petrivied waterfall but was actually lots of salt dried on the outline of an ancient waterfall. Nice picture as it was right at the top of a massivo hill with sweet views out over the mexican mountains. The last part of the tour wa to a Meskal factory which is a drink similar to Tequila. Saw how it was made and got to try about 20 different flavours. Most were pretty nice but the straight stiff is way to similar to tequlia for my tastes. They put the worm in the bottom of the bottles to give some extra flavour and we each got to eat one. A bit salty but quite tasty!

Tomorrow might try to get my ass up to Mexico City for the weekend festivities.

Laters,

Chris

Antigua and Lake Atitlan

Spent a couple of days in the pretty little town of Antigua which is nestled in the middle of 3 volcanoes. Did the San Francisco Volcano tour and saw some magma up close. Unfortunately we were a week too late to see the latest eruption but did see glowing red rock and magma in cracks in the cooler lava. Toasted a few marshmallows and burned some sticks. Surprisingly the place didnt stink of the usual fire and brimstone.

Next day we headed over to Lake Atitlan which is another beautiful crater lake surrounded my extinct volcanoes. Spent the night chilling out as ive had a bit of a dodgy belly for the last few days. Getting skinnier by the movement :) Next day headed over to the Chichicastenango
where we picked up all the tourist tat that we have been after for muchos cheapos. Pretty bonkers place but fairly standard for markets. After the markets in Asia you have prepared for everything!!

Now in we a wee place further round the lake called San Marco which is some sort of hippy retreat. Everyone is into Yoga and meditation. Nice enough but we are on our way back to Antigua this afternoon for Ruth few days of the trip.

Later folks.

C

Semuc Champay and Lanquin

Headed down from Flores in some God awful minibus. We were last in so got the worst seats. Still got to take the good with the bad. Ended up in the mountain village of Lanquin where we chilled out of the first day and managed to check into the minted Hostel El Retiro. Situated beside the river its a jungle huts and hammocks style place. Its was totally full so we only managed to get a room in the loft. It was quite cool but not very secure since there was no door on the room. Still managed to keep hold of all our possessions :) Only bad part was the place was infested with loads of Israelis who are not the friendliest of people. Still there were enough Europeans and Yanks to make it bearable!

We booked to go to see the caves which are 30Km long. We only explored about 2km in but it was really hot inside. A total change from every other cave i´ve been in. The place was driping in Guano which is bat shit so firm footing was essential. There were millions of bats and at dusk we stood at the cave entrance and watched as they all exited the cave to go and hunt. Got some amazing pics.

Next day we did the Caving and waterfall tour which involved wading and swimming into a submergerd cave system trying to hold a candle above your head for light. Ruth and i both had out head torches but we were definatly in the minority. Quite hard to swim with one hand out of the water. Really good fun climbing up and down ladders and through waterfalls. After that we did a bit of tubing down the river, then jumping off a 15m bridge and finally onto the Semuc Champay waterfalls. The water is forecd into a cave under the falls which is fairly impressive. Spent the afternoon lounging around in the various pools and jumping off rocks till the rain hit. Everyone rain for cover and i had the place to myself for a bit. Something very peaceful about swimming in the rain.

Now we are down in Antigua which is a pretty little town sitting in the shadow of an active volcano. Off to climb the volcano later this afternoon and you get to see lava up close and personal. The tour is even meant to include roasting marshmallows over lava :)) More on that later...

C